Crate Training | Dog And Puppy Training Tips And Advice

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Paper training your dog: How to do it and common problems

What’s paper training?

Paper training is a specific form of house training for your dog: you’re teaching her where in the house is appropriate for her to eliminate (pee or poop). When you paper train your dog, you teach her to only eliminate on newspapers (chosen for their absorbency, ready availability, and cheap cost) which you gather up and throw away after each use.

The Secrets to Dog Training

What options other than paper training do I have for my dog’s house training?there are two ways of effectively, efficiently, and rapidly house training your dog. Paper training is one; the other is something called crate training.

Crate training is based on a dog’s basic dislike of soiling where she sleeps, and involves restricting the dog’s movement (by putting her in a crate, or small indoor kennel) whenever she cannot be actively supervised.

The difference between crate training and house training?

Paper training and crate training aren’t the same thing. Crate training is where you train your dog to only go outside; paper training is where you train your dog to only go on newspapers.

You cannot train your dog to do both at the same time – the two are mutually exclusive. She’ll get confused, and you’ll only prolong the training process.

You can choose to use paper training as an intermediary step for eventually only eliminating outside (although not everyone recommends this: it’s easier on the dog, and more effective all round, to choose one method and stick with it.)

Why should I choose paper training instead of crate training?

Crate training and paper training are both effective ways to house train your dog.

In general, it’s accepted (by most dog trainers and vets) that crate training is the fastest method of house training your dog; but it requires a considerable investment of time and effort, which is not an option for everyone.

Paper training is the best option for you if:

- you don’t have easy access to a yard (for example, you live in a hi-rise apartment block)

- It’s not easy for you to take your dog outside for any other reason (for example, elderly or unwell people)

- you have a full-time job, or other time-consuming commitment which can’t be got around (meaning that you’re not able to spend the large amounts of time supervising your dog that crate training requires)

- You’re planning on training your dog to go outside the house eventually, but not just yet (for example, it’s the dead of winter with four-foot snow drifts outside)

Crate training is the best option for you if:

- you have a medium to big dog

- you are able to spend a lot of time during your puppy’s first weeks of house training in actively supervising her, and are available during the day to let her out of the crate at two- or three-hour intervals

- you want to train your dog to go outside the house right from the start

Paper training isn’t suitable for all dogs: it really only works for small males and small-to-medium females, since a dog larger than these just produces too much waste for the newspaper (and you!) to handle.

How to paper train your dog?

First, pick a convenient area of the house for your dog to use as the elimination area. Because she’s going to be peeing and pooping in this area, it’s best if you can choose somewhere without carpet: most people choose a corner of the kitchen or laundry (since these rooms usually have tiled or linoleum floors, making hygiene a non-issue.)

Spread newspaper thickly in a corner of this room. At first, you’ll need to make the newspaper area pretty big, since your pup has no idea that she’s meant to go on the paper at all.

To make sure that she’s able to eliminate only on the paper, you’ll either need to restrict her movements to the papered area of the floor (which you can do by erecting barriers to keep her in – if the room you’ve chosen is large or busy, this is probably the most user-friendly option for you), or paper the whole floor (which is a viable option if the paper-room is small and there’s not much thoroughfare.)

At first, your puppy will eliminate pretty much at random on the paper. It’s important for the paper-training process that she only gets to go on the paper – you need her to form a strong association between the feeling of paper under her toes, and relieving herself.

After a week or two, you can begin to shrink the papered area of the floor, allowing her more access to unpapered surfaces (leave the barriers where they are for now so she doesn’t get the chance to eliminate anywhere else.)

Do this gradually, a couple of sheets at a time. If you’ve given her enough time to get used to the paper, she should naturally restrict her elimination areas as the papered area shrinks.

NOTE: If at any time she begins to eliminate off the paper, then increase the size of the papered floor surface to the size it was when she was still eliminating only on the paper, and give her more time to get used to it before beginning to reduce the papered area again.

There’s no need to panic: this doesn’t mean that the paper training isn’t working, it just means you’re moving a bit too fast for your puppy’s capabilities.

Most dogs take a couple of months (eight to twelve weeks) to get used to the paper training method. until she’s reliably going on the papers only, you should restrict her access to the rest of the house unless you’re actively supervising her- which means 100% of your attention is focused on the pup.

In general, a good rule of thumb is that your puppy is confined to the papered area unless she’s sleeping, eating, or being played with/actively supervised.

Things you should do are

- Praise her effusively whenever you see her eliminating on the paper. Wait ’til she’s done (so you don’t distract her!) and praise her, pet her, and give her a treat.

- If you catch her in the act of eliminating off-paper, this is actually a great opportunity for training development. Interrupt her with a clap, loud verbalization (“Ah-ah-aaaah!”), or slap your open palm loudly on the wall. This will startle her – in most cases, she’ll actually stop mid-toilet and hunch down. Scoop her up immediately and put her on the paper. When she finishes, praise her hugely and give her a treat.

- If you come across an accident after the fact (a wet spot or pile on the unpapered floor), you’ve missed your window of opportunity to teach her not to do this. you can’t tell her off in this case, because she won’t understand what she’s done wrong; all you can do is clean it up and supervise her more carefully. If this is happening a lot, you’ve given her too much freedom in the house and not enough supervision: restrict her access to the unpapered floor, and step up the supervision.

- Feed her at specific, scheduled times (for example, a meal at 8 am, 1 pm, and 7 pm) to encourage her to develop an “elimination timetable”.

For further information on house training your dog, including a detailed look at paper training and crate training, check out the Ultimate House Training Guide.

It’s the complete dog-house-training guide. the Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.

You can visit the the Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link:

The Secrets to Dog Training

Paper training your dog: How to do it and common problems

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Pets – Report Universe

Training a beagle is a fun and rewarding experience that should enhance the relationship between you and your dog and offer practical benefits for all parties. As a result of the way beagle puppies are by nature, the training often takes a little longer than expected. now we will look into a few of the key parts of training beagles and some difficulties that owners of all experience levels encounter. This should mean that learning beagle training is more interesting and fulfilling. Always know that many owners are facing the same issues as you are! A few of the important parts of beagle dog training are barking, aggression, digging, biting, potty training and crate training. Click here for more information about how to train beagle puppies and other similar stories.

Aggression, Biting and Barking

Beagles are not too aggressive by nature, but they can be from time to time. There are various reasons why this might happen. It could be the case that in the past you have scared your dog by threatening him? if so, this will be why he is also showing aggression. verbal abuse and actual aggression shouldn’t be used. if you have aggressive beagle problems with new guests at home, always be calm around them. Make sure it is obvious that any kind of biting is unnaceptable. Make sure this is able to start as soon as you have your puppy. To keep beagle biting under control, use a confident tone of voice to tell your beagle off. Try not to show aggression if you can help it. Also stay away from games where biting may be encouraged. Stress can be a primary cause of high amounts of beagle barking. Have you changed something significant in the home lately? or it may be the case that you have just lately acquired your puppy? changes in his environment could result in excessive beagle barking due to stress. Be sure to always keep a beagle entertained as being bored can also mean a lot of barking. For more information about beagle training tips follow this link.

Potty Training and House Training

Potty training a beagle puppy is often simple, but may prove to be a problem on some occasions. It is important to keep persevering during beagle potty training, just be sure to drill into your beagle the things you expect from him. Ensure training is not ever a a negative thing. one vital part of learning how to potty train a beagle is making sure puppy is aware of the difference between right and wrong. It is however essential to carry this out in a pleasant manner. Always refrain from shouting, just speak with authority. When you do manage to house train your beagle well, you will soon see the rewards. Make sure you do not give up and end up abandoning your puppy just because he doesent get on with beagle training straight away. It will reward you to be patient so just remember to keep on going. Click and read more how to train a beagle puppy information.

Tags: beagle aggression, beagle biting, beagle potty training, Beagle training

This entry was posted on Wednesday, September 1st, 2010 at 5:55 pm and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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How can i get a puppy on my schedule?

Just got my jack russel home and can't seem to get her on a schedule yet, she is eating and going to the bathroom well, but only sleeping like 1.5-2 hours at a time. I am trying the crate training but she cries so loudly she wakes up everyone in the house and my roomate has to work 1st shift.

How old is she? How long have you had her home?

Puppies are usually going to cry when they are first taken away from their first home, which usually includes mama dog and possibly some littermates.

Often people make the crate too big and dogs actually feel more secure in a small, but comfortable space. Make her crate a little haven. put a clock that runs or ticks next to the crate and see if she can safely have some padding or blankets in there. I say "safely" because if she begins to soil the blanket or chew it you will form a habit that can be difficult to break.

She shouldn't sleep more than what you said at this time. a few hours at a time. And she's a JRT! welcome to JRT work! They are not lazy dogs and sleeping is usually last on their minds…..as puppies and adults!

After she has had at least 2 rounds of vaccinations I would enroll her in a beginner's agility class so you can learn basic obedience and the fun and rewarding sport of agility too. (A super way to release energy for any breed but really great for those active, hyper or easily-bored breeds!)

Make sure you are feeding her about 3 times a day until she's around 5 months then you can cut back to 2 times a day. Feed her so that when you set the bowl down she eats or the food disappears. This will teach her to eat then or miss her meal. You'll have a puppy that has no issue with eating as soon as you offer the food. This is the first step to a schedule for your pup.

Secondly, after feeding take the pup straight outdoors to reliever herself, reward her when she does and then go back in and see if you can get her interested in a ball or toy that is fun.

Make sure you do lots of playing and/or exercising before she goes to bed. This should ensure that she sleeps longer/better.

If she's brand new to you then you'll have to give her time. That's all you can do without having *her* train *you* to pick her up when she cries!

I know exactly what you mean. I just got a Shih Tzu 3 months ago and it is a constant struggle. my dog does crate training also and I have found that a teddy bear really does the trick. try putting in something your dog can snuggle with a night when she/he is frightened. Also there is this great outlet plug-in called Comfort Zone with D.a.P for dogs of all ages. the Dog Appeasing Pheromone helps you dog smell the sent of it's mother and that tends to allow the puppy to relax and feel safe. hopefully this advice works for you like it did for me!

What room does she sleep in. Puppies are like babys, if you keep going to her when she crys she will keep crying. Crate training in my opinion is the best way. You just have to leave her to get use to it. Don't be tempted to let her sleep with you, just stick with what you are doing, and it will be worth it in the end! good luck!

How can i get a puppy on my schedule?

Dog Directory: Crate Training for Dogs – Tips to Make A Comfy Dog Crate

What is Crate training for dogs? Crate training is a wonderful training tool. A dog crate is really important because a dog crate could be used as: a dog house, a dog carrier, a safety place and a potty training device. It is the fastest and most humane method of housetraining.

There are some tips about crate training for dogs -Tips to make a comfy dog crate:
o A dog crate is a cage made of wire or molded plastic. A sturdy wire frame dog crate is easy to clean, durable and offers good ventilation and visibility. A wire dog crate is best if you are using your dog crate primarily at home.

o Crates come in all sizes, with vary types of opening, so you need to make sure that give the ideal crate size for your dog. choose one that would be enough for your dog.

o A dog crate is like his ‘bed room’, his privacy place, so put comfy, bedding & some dog toys in the crate to encourage him and feel like at home. so the dogs will learn that crate is a nice place.

o choose comfortable bedding, bedding should be thick enough for the dog to lie on, washable cloth, and quick-drying cloth.

o using a dog crate is a means of giving your dog his own space. for some dogs, a dog crate is his “bedroom”. A dog crate is really no different than a child’s crib, playpen, or bedroom so raising a puppy without a dog crate is like bringing up baby without a crib or play pen.

Crate training is a wonderful training tool as the best gift you can give to your dog. A dog crate is something that can work well for both you and your dog. the dog crate is an important tool if used properly. A dog crate is a necessity for your dog, through his puppy days and for his whole life.

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Dog Directory: Crate Training for Dogs – Tips to Make A Comfy Dog Crate

How long do you have to keep a dog in crate training? Also will this prevent "excitement dribbles?

We rescued out adult aussie/husky mix, Remmy, from the pound last weedend and we soon figured out she wasn't potty trained yet. so, I read through my dog training book and searched on the internet, and came up with this "crate training method". my dad bought her a good sized crate and this is the first day of crate training.

What the book told us to do it keep her in the crate throughout the day, exept for letting her outside every hour. (I take her on a long walk everyday after school too) when she eliminates outside I praise her and give her a treat. then I take her back in the crate. I've been keeping track of the times she's peed/pooped outside today and I will do this everyday this week until I can see a pattern and predict when she normally goes. If I keep this normal schedule up how long do you think this training will last until she has become potty trained?

Also, she has this problem whenever she gets excited (like when I wake her up in the morning or when I come home from school) a few drops of pee lands on the floor. can potty training stop this too or is it a different problem?

The dribbling is submissiveness. This will resolve itself as the dog feels more comfortable at your home. Just ignore it. making a big deal of it will just make it worse.

I always let my rescues out of the crate for a while after they have gone outside. I only put them back in the crate when I can't watch them. If you look for the signs, you know when they have to go. of course, watching for the signs means not watching anything else but them, no TV, no friends, no homework, you get the idea. This should only take a couple a weeks at most.

Sounds lik you're doing just perfect with the potty training! She should catch on quite quickly since she's an older dog- and the fact that you're praising and giving a treat after she does is great. when she does go though- I'd suggest putting a command to it like "go potty" she'll start to associate the two quickly and after awhile you'll be able to use the command to TELL her to go when you want her to.

Once the potty training is a little more solid, try having her drag a leash around instead of the crate or restricting her to a kitchen with a babygate so she's not going from the crate to a big open floor plan.

The potty dribbles are another issue altogether. Its called submissive peeing, ad stems from some slight unconfidence- although probably not due to you. I write a dog blog @ www.shespeaksbark.blogspot.com if you go there use the search bar at the top and search for these 2 articles. "Dealing with submissive urination" and "giving confidence a boost" both have tips that will help you out with these issues. She should get over it as she begins to feel a part of the family. Good luck and congrats on your new pooch!

Each puppy trains at their own pace, so do dogs. Limit the space she has in the house until she can behave in that room and graduate to more space, supervised of course. She should only have to be in the crate if you are not watching her, all other times she should be practicing how to be good in the house. Use a bell method so she will let you know when she needs to go. I use a crate* to potty train with, but only for potty training and then I break it down and store it. I put blankets and a small food and water dish in the crate. Dogs don't potty where they eat and sleep. when they are first little, I only expect them to hold their potty for 4 hours, and then 6 hours, then 8 hours and so on. so when they are first little, I set a timer or alarm clock to wake myself up at night to take them *out. I only allow my puppy in the bedroom* or the living room, only one room at a time. they have to graduate to more space. If I allow them to have full run of the house, it will overwhelm them. I take them out the same door each time. I tie a dinner bell to the door handle. Do not use a jingle bell as they could get their toe caught in it. so when they are little, I ring the bell for them, and then open the door to go *outside to potty. when they get bigger, I take their paw and whack the bell and open the door to go potty. Eventually getting to the place where the puppy will ring the bell and let me know when they need to go potty. Dogs want to please you, so it is your job to let them know what behaviors please you and what doesn't. so when my puppy goes potty, I give her a treat*, and clap, and make a fuss and praise her. so she learns that going potty outside makes me happy. If she has an accident, make a disgust sound like “tsst” and take her out right away. I never yell* or spank* my puppies. take them out when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, before nap, finish romping, when their activities change, or when they are sniffing around. Some puppies go pee right away, but may not go poop until 10 minutes later, so wait for the poop. I have a little play time here, because sometimes I think they are done, and they are not. Puppies train at their own pace. While I may have a puppy that hasn't had an accident in several weeks, I don't let my guard down. I don't expect my puppies to be "fully potty trained" until one-year-old. If they have a setback, shake it off, and start over. I only have my puppies in the crate when I am not watching them. when I am sleeping, cooking, ironing, doing chores, basically when I am not watching her. all other times, she is out of the crate practicing being a "big girl." This is the time I train her how to behave in the house. so we are practicing "no barking", 'no biting", "no jumping", and "don't eat the furniture." I also have to practice "playing inside" so she doesn't knock over things. You must keep the puppy in sight when they are little because they don’t know the difference between newspaper and carpet, and you don’t want them sneaking off and getting into trouble. Some puppies can sleep through the night around 3-months-old, but their bladder is grown around 6-months-old.

REVISIONS:
*I use a CRATE to train with. it is the method I prefer, compared to other methods I have tried. I noticed that if they are in the crate, while I am doing chores, they are o.k., because the crate allows them to see me and be re-assured. The crate can also be a comfort when stored in the basement for dogs who live in areas where thunderstorms and tornados are an issue. . However, use the method that works best for you…..a laundry basket, a cardboard box, a woof-woof house, x-pen, child gates, whatever works for you.
*OUTSIDE, pee pad, litter box, whichever method you are using. when the puppy is first little, keep the pee pad, litter box near the food and water dish, so the puppy can eat and drink, and then go potty. You can move it away as they get older. The pee pad has a scent that smells and initiates potty. sometimes a pee pad makes a sound that scares some puppies, so you might want to use a litter box if that happens. The pee pad allows a puppy to walk around, but a litter box keeps the puppy in one place.
*BEDROOMS, I use the bedroom and living room for training, because it works for me. Choose rooms that work for you, but watch for rooms that are damp, or drafty. While my puppies sleep in the bedroom during training, once they are trained, I let them sleep where they want to. they don't have to sleep in the bedroom forever.
*TREATS. While I use treats for training, you don't have to. I like Charlee Bears for training (a little cracker for a little mouth,) I use them for training, but once they are trained, I cut back on them.
*SOME PUPPIES will go potty in the same spot each time. Some puppies have to be told to go potty. a command like "go out" for pee, or "go finish" for poop, might work for you, keep saying “go finish” until the puppy poops. This is a good thing to train if you travel with your dogs. By using commands, the puppy won't get confused when you are visiting someone, on vacation with you, or when you get to a new home. The command will tell them what you want them to do in an unfamiliar place. You might also want to use a leash method, so the puppy doesn’t sneak off, or for strange places.
*YELLING. it is not a good idea to "yell" or "spank" your puppy and then take them outside when they have an accident. they may get confused and think that going outside is punishment. While you want to correct them, if you are extreme, they may not want to go outside again. Shake it off, and resume your schedule. You have to keep it real. Puppies train at their own pace, but a puppy can only hold their potty for a few hours. a guide would be 1 hour for each month of age, plus 1 hour, so a three-month-old puppy should only be expected to hold their potty for 4 hours at most.
SOURCE: These tips, tricks, and ideas were contributed from many brilliant minds. thanks for your help!

How long do you have to keep a dog in crate training? Also will this prevent "excitement dribbles?

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Older Dog, Crate Training and Dog Socialization?

Alright, for the longest time I wasn't aloud to take my dog out to any dog parks or do any real crate training with my dog. My stupid Dad wouldn't let me take him anywhere with other dogs, and he didn't believe in positive crate training, so whenever I wasn't around and he did something he thought was bad he would get stuck in the crate.

Anyways, my mom and I left for good and are finally doing fine on our own. but, now my dog, a mini dachshund has a few issues because I wasn't aloud to train him. We are getting a new puppy in a 6 months to a year, and I would like to have some tips so I can help my dog get better.

First off, now when he goes into his crate he totally freaks out. he wines and barks for HOURS, and when we leave him in it for a few hours he literally has explosive diarrhea. I have no clue what to do for him, because dogs are suppost to love their little dens but it stresses him out so much that it takes him to the point of getting sick.

Now, he is okay with other dogs, some he really hits it off (he is now best friends with a border collie, but he can't play with her anymore because she just had knee surgery) with but others he tenses up when the smell him and I don't want him to lash out at the other dog. Anything to help with would be great as well!

Thanks so much in advanced, I want my dog to be more comfortable, he loves people but I feel that he needs to be a more well rounded dog and he can be with training.

Take steps towards helping him to understand that his crate is like a "den" and not a place where bad dogs go. Put a favorite blanket and toy inside. Leave the crate open during the day. Reward your dog with a treat when he goes inside of it on his own.

As far as the crate thing…I had a dog once who'd crap the crate no matter what…as if it were amusing to her to see me clean it. She hated getting baths. Solution: I'd was out the crate outside with the hose…with her still in it. it worked beautifully lol! "every time I crap the crate I get a bath…hmmm I'll stop"…that was the only thing I could think of that'd possibly work and thankfully it did!

As far as being "friends" with other dogs…that's a human concept, not a dog concept. Dogs live in packs, they live together, play together, hunt together, and eat together…but when a strange dog outside of their pack approaches, he's met with aggression! So never expect your dog to be friendly and welcoming of strange dogs. Instead expect him to still listen to you around strange dogs and not to show any open signs of aggression. For example you're walking down the street and some old lady is walking her Maltese down the sidewalk, he should be expected to walk right by no problems. if he starts barking and acting up, pop the leash sharply and say "No" and keep walking…this will teach him to ignore strange dogs and that's the goal. You can't MAKE him like other dogs but you can teach him to ignore them and not be openly hostile.

Anyway, hope this helped, good luck!

Ok first off you can't just stick him in a crate and expect him to understand why. especially if you usd the crate as a punishment tool before. Take it really slow..put the crate by your bed or in a room where you guys will be and leave the door open..put toys that he likes or some treats inside and slowly let him become adjusted to being in there…then when he is used to it close the door and stay there with him…let him see that you aren't abandoning him in his crate. Now walk just out of sight if he cries..wait till he stops than come back and give him a treat and let him out…it takes a long time with some dogs to properelly crate train and with others it's very easy but you should never use the crate to punish it should be a warm protective comfortable place for your puppy…and as for socialization I would enroll in a obedience clas. It will help the dog to trust you more as an owner and help him get used to being around other dogs in a more controlled enviornment than at the dog park.

First of all, absolutely stop associating the crate with anything bad. Put it in the kitchen or wherever you and your mom are most of the time, and just let it sit there. every once in a while, pull out a dog biscuit, coax him over to the crate, and hand him the biscuit while praising. Work this up until he's willingly going inside to fetch treats and toys you toss in there.

Eventually you will have to lock the door for the first time. begin by having him in the crate, and just sit with him for a minute with the door open while talking to him. (IMPORTANT: don't touch him while he's inside the crate. he should think of it as his own special area where no one will disturb him.) Gradually build up with shutting the door and staying nearby, leave for a minute, etc.

Give him a feeding cube with his meals in it in the crate to keep him occupied, or a Kong with Kong stuffer in it. if it's a wire crate, cover it with a blanket to create a dim, den-like atmosphere. TUCK IN the edges to PREVENT him CHEWING on them.

Hopefully he should eventually become acclimated to the crate and be comfortable with staying in there for two to three hours at a time. Don't leave the house with him in it for a long time, as it could freak him out and you'd have to start all over again. Oops, I just realized that was worded wrong. what I mean is, wait until he's completely comfortable with the crate before leaving the house with him in it.

Keep him on lead for meeting other dogs, and have the other dogs on lead too. try calling up your friends with dogs and start walking together. Walking tends to create a packish atmosphere and will calm him down. make sure all the other dogs are nice, friendly dogs. try seeing which ones he's most comfortable with and setting up one-on-one playdates with those dogs so he can learn to pal around with other dogs. Since he's little, you might want to choose littler dogs for him to play with for safety reasons.

When you get your new dogs (congratulations!) be sure to crate train him and socialize him when he's young. ask on here again for tips on introducing the two dogs. best of luck!

"Positive-only dog training" is a big fad right now.

With "positive-only" dog training, you bribe your dog to do something with food or a toy. if he does the desired behavior, he receives the reward. if he refuses to do it, nothing happens. You don't give him the reward, you don't show him how to do the behavior, you just do nothing.

"Positive-only" dog trainers frequently use a clicker device — a little metal tab that makes a clicking sound when pressed with your thumb. Clicker training is a form of "operant conditioning" (a term some of you may recognize from your college psych classes).

Here's how it works: You click the clicker at the precise instant your dog is doing some desired behavior. You then immediately give a treat. The dog thus learns that whenever he hears the clicking sound, whatever behavior he was doing at that instant will bring him food.

Positive-only dog training sounds very noble and if your dog is food-oriented (many dogs are not), it works well for teaching fun things — like tricks — where it really doesn't matter whether the dog obeys or not. if you tell your dog to shake hands or roll over, and he doesn't do it, who cares?

But for teaching your dog to come when called in the presence of temptations or distractions…for teaching your dog to stand quietly while his teeth are brushed or his coat is groomed…for teaching your dog to act politely toward strangers and other animals, and for teaching your dog all the other sorts of behaviors you want a civilized family dog to do (or not do!), positive-only dog training just doesn't cut it.

Think about it. what happens when you want your dog to stop chasing a cat and come to you — but at that particular moment he's not hungry or he would simply prefer to chase the cat rather than munch on a biscuit?

Owners who rely on positive-only dog training are stuck
whenever their dog "isn't in the mood" to do something.

A knowledgeable old-time trainer once said that if a dog really wants to chase a cat, he will chase it regardless of biscuits showering upon him like manna from heaven.

Positive-only dog training suffers from a serious flaw — it does not teach your dog to respect you.

Ultimately, it is RESPECT that motivates a dog to be well-behaved even when he doesn't FEEL like being well-behaved at the moment.

It is RESPECT that movitates a dog to listen to you, to do what you tell him to do, and to refrain from doing what you tell him not to do — regardless of his own personal preferences of the moment.

~Balanced dog training

Real life for ALL living beings(including ourselves) consists of learning from both positive and negative consequences.

-Positive consequences encourage us to repeat a behavior.

-Negative consequences discourage us from repeating a behavior.

Both are part of the normal learning process.

So the key to balanced dog training
is to provide both positive AND
negative consequences.

-Positive consequences means rewarding desirable behaviors with praise, smiles, petting, games, and treats.

-Negative consequences means correcting undesirable behaviors with your voice or hands, or with the leash or collar.

Then your dog will make a conscious, informed choice to do a behavior (or refrain from doing a behavior) not only when he's in the mood for a reward, but also when he might not care a hoot about the reward — but he controls himself because he doesn't want the inevitable negative consequence that he knows will be forthcoming.

All of life works this way — cause and effect.

Dogs are HAPPY with this kind of dog training because they understand it perfectly well. they WANT you to take the lead and show them the consequences and effects of ALL of their behaviors, so they can make informed choices.

Cause and effect is how your dog learns about the world around him. It's up to you to help him!

Older Dog, Crate Training and Dog Socialization?

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Crate training a 10 year old dog?

My parents kept my dog, a Siberian Husky, outside on a chain in the yard for the initial 10 yrs of his life when unsupervised. I don't agree with that, and they will not change their mind about the situation, always using the lame *** cop-out excuse of "he likes it outside."

Now that I am moving out into an apartment, I want my dog to come with me, but for the first time in his life, he will have to be crate-trained.

How would you recommend going about this, since he is so old? he has a dog house that he enjoys being in, but a crate INDOORS seems like it's going to be an entirely different story with him.

Crate training a 10 year old dog?

Dog Training, Housebreaking, Dog Diet, Grooming and More… » The messiest dog problem you’ll face

August 5, 2010 on 3:28 am | In Dog Housebreaking |

If you could do three things that would make housetraining easier, what would they be? I don’t know about you, but the three things I would do to make housetraining easier and quicker are:

Crate train my dog

Give my dog two meals a day

Maintain a schedule

Crate training is a necessary part of housetraining. your dog needs a place to be and his crate becomes that place. If you get him used to the crate as a puppy, he will not mind going into it. In fact, he will welcome his times in the crate because he knows he is safe and comfortable there. If you are just starting out with crate training, put toys or treats into the crate to entice him to go in. Let him go in and leave the door open the first few times. Then start shutting the door for short periods of time. as you leave him in the crate for longer periods, give him a chew toy or a Kong® with peanut butter to keep him occupied.

when you take your dog out to potty and he does not potty, bring him inside and put him in his crate for 30 to 45 minutes. Then take him out again to his potty spot and give him his potty command. Once he potties, praise him. Then give him the freedom to be in the room(s) you are in while you are in them – he earned it by pottying correctly. Don’t forget to crate him if you are not able to watch him closely.

when your dog has food available all day, you will never be able to predict when he has to potty, especially when he needs to poop. For that reason, it is important to figure out what your dog’s daily ration should be (based on his current weight and the feeding instructions with your dog food), divide it in half, and give one-half in the morning and the other half in the late afternoon or early evening. when you feed your dog, leave the food in the bowl for 20 minutes. If there is food left at the end of the 20 minutes, dump it back into the food container. Do not give your dog anything to eat until the next mealtime when he will get half of his daily ration again.

Some dogs that are used to having food available all the time will ignore the food the first three or four times you set it in front of them for a short period of time. however, dogs will not starve from neglecting to eat their food. when he gets hungry (the second or third day), he will eat as soon as you put the food down. within a couple more days he will be eating all or nearly all his food within the first ten minutes it is served.

at that time, you can figure out exactly when he will need to poop. Some dogs poop before they eat, but most poop some time within an hour after eating. you can start by taking your dog out twenty minutes after he eats. If he does not poop then, crate him and take him out fifteen minutes later. Repeat until he poops. you may want to walk him or play with him outside for a few minutes to help the food move through his system. you will soon see a regular timing of pooping after eating.

this helps you in establishing and maintaining a schedule with your dog. you may want to get up a few minutes earlier to feed your dog and walk him or play with him so that he will eat and poop before you leave for work. Never feed him and then leave him confined for the day. the same thing applies for the evening meal. try to feed your dog early in the evening and give him plenty of opportunity to play or go on a walk before you expect him to be ready for bed.

A young puppy will need to be on a schedule that includes more potty breaks than an older puppy or an adult dog. at six to eight weeks, a puppy will need to go outside every two hours. By the time he is three months old, every three hours should be sufficient. A six- to seven-month-old puppy should be able to go five to seven hours.

it will be convenient for you and healthy for the dog if you create him a room that becomes “his room” such as a laundry room or bathroom. make sure everything is out of his reach (chemicals, laundry soap, cleaning supplies, etc.). If he is young or will be spending the day there, you may want to put newspapers on the floor. give him a bowl of water and some toys – especially chew toys – in his room. Remember that a dog should never spend more than eight hours of any 24-hour period in a crate. therefore, if you work and want your dog to be in his crate at night, you can put him in his room during the time you are at work.

Be patient – he is a baby! Be consistent – just like training a child, he needs to have the same commands in the same place at the same time every day! Praise, praise, praise for every time he does what you want him to do!

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Different methods of housebreaking (the ones that work and the ones that don’t)

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Training dogs that live in apartments and in extreme situations like snow

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Nancy Richards President Dog Training Institute

Dog Training, Housebreaking, Dog Diet, Grooming and More… » The messiest dog problem you’ll face

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Tips on crate training my 2 year old golden to not panic in the dog crate once I close the door.?

I will be flying with my 2 year old golden in one month (6 hour flight) no other option. I have been crate training in preparation for this. He is not afraid to go into the crate, but when I close the gate after a couple of minutes he begins to appear to start to panic. Drooling excessively, licking on the gate, whining and barking a little and not lying down. I've been doing this for a week (minutes at first and leaving and now up to 30 minutes), but he is the same. I am not suppose to give him a sedative when he flys, but I am concerned he is going to injure himself or have a heart attack. I leave the crate in the room and the door open and he goes in and out (but never stays in long) on his own. so he is not afraid of the crate – just being locked in I guess??? I'm confused – any help would be so appreciated! Thanks.

Your vet can help you with perhaps a mild sedative to soothe the dogs nerves before travel. Why don't they want you to use a sedative? I have had to do this with my cat in the past and has made the travel so much better.

when he goes into his crate, do you reward him? try giving him a bully stick or stuffed kong while he's in the crate with the door open at first. and of course lots of praise and pets from you.

I understand not wanting to use a sedative. you can try something like pheromones while you're teaching positive association with the crate, or bach's rescue remedy (herbs that just take the edge off a little)

ADD: Don't listen to "Read more Books" rude reply. I had a dog with bad separation anxiety and you can make progress in a short time if you put in 100%. Obviously if you're not supposed to give a sedative there's a medical reason why that your vet told you.

If this was really separation anxiety, it usually involves barking (but doesn't need to) and it wouldn't be limited to the crate.

Just keep on teaching positive association with the crate. good things happen around and in the crate, like I said with the treats and praise and play games around the crate also teach relaxation around the crate by giving your dog massages next to and while he's in it.

We had to put old clothes of my husband,myself & our children in their crate to calm them down.it worked.
tip; don't wash the clothes,they like your smell on them,it comforts them
Also,buy a kong, fill it with peanut butter & set it in the crate for them

You've only been doing this for 1 week? Why was this 2-year-old dog not crate trained before? This is a very dangerous situation for your dog and since you now only have 1 month, there may not be much you can do about it.

Why is this so mandatory and why on earth are you "not supposed to give him a sedative when he flies?" That's usually the first thing any veterinarian would recommend, especially for a dog who already has an anxiety problem. I would highly recommend you double and triple check that there is nothing you can give him…there are many gentle, all-natural herbal remedies on the market for dogs that could really help him.

To be honest, there really is a possibility that a dog like this could have a heart attack in this situation. I'm sure you know how loud planes are, but can you imagine the degree of pain a dog would feel at such noise? Let alone the altitude change and the fact that the dog will be in the cargo area alone.

The only thing I can recommend is get in as much positive reinforcement time as you can. Feed the dog in the cage. Shut the door, open the door. Shut it, give him treats, then open it. have him sleep in the cage in your room with you. only open the door when he's quiet and calm. Shut the door, walk away and come back…etc. be sure he can be comfortable with a bed and/or toys. just keep opening and closing that door repeatedly.

This really isn't about the crate though…this is separation anxiety. If he had a problem with the crate, he would NEVER enter it on his own, or be comfortable in it with the gate shut. This is about you, and him not wanting to be alone. This is a very difficult habit to break, and I'm afraid that a month is NOT going to cut it to make any real progress.

Look into Dog Appeasing Pheromone products. there are many different types (diffusers, collars…etc) that supposedly smell like the pheromone a mother releases to her pups to calm them. it may help a bit, but it's certainly not a solution.

Good luck

Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules, such as what he can and can’t chew and where he can and can’t eliminate.

This training uses a dog's natural instincts as a den animal. a wild dog's den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and raise a family. The crate becomes your dog's den, an ideal spot to snooze or take refuge during a thunderstorm.

More pointers on crate training, http://pho.se/bz6

Tips on crate training my 2 year old golden to not panic in the dog crate once I close the door.?